Konaseema

Life by the Godavari The Waters The wee hours, just before the sun is about to rise, are probably the best time to commune with the Godavari, which teems with life in the early mornings. The river awakens with the sweetly tinkling temple bells and the offerings of the pious men and women bathing at its numerous Ghats (banks) at dawn. The mighty Godavari is the longest river system in the country, second only to the sacred Ganges. Its strength is masked by the gentle rushing sounds of its waters; but its seasonal wrath makes its might more than obvious as it wreaks havoc across its territories. Nothing seems to stand as an obstacle to it as it rushes to water fields, feed fishermen, spread fertility even purported to cleanse the sins of the multitudes that bathe in it. The Godavari is the heart of Konaseema and everything here revolves around it from lifestyle and religion to literature and industry. It is the vibrant life-force that nurtures and controls the lives of the people living on its banks. In Konaseema, people connect to the Godavari to such an extent that they treat it like kin, rather than a natural resource. They refer to its annual floods as Godaari Vachchindi, which means the true Godavari has arrived, bringing red waters that brim to the Ghats and splash everywhere. When it takes this fierce form once a year, some of the villages and routine users of the ferry do suffer its wrath, but it also provides a bountiful harvest. Although there are a few bridges across the Godavari (and some more are being built), the ferry continues to remain a significant mode of transport for the locals travelling across the many islands and tiny villages on the banks of the Godavari and its many tributaries and distributaries. Water lilies and lotus ponds filled with white or pink blossoms peeking out at passers-by are a common sight. Commuter transport on the Godavari via boat is an experience in itself. A pair of boats called pantu, (essentially, commuter ferries, but very rickety, old-style, flat country boats typical of the region) cross the river in such a way that there is only one boat at or approaching either bank at any point of time; they can carry about sixty persons at a time including their vehicles. On one such fun ride, we took a pantu at Pasarlapudi village to go to Bodasakurru along with our car, about four rickshaws, twenty motorbikes, cycles, and fifty odd passengers all packed into the boat. Other small country boats with charming yellow sails swayed in clusters throughout the journey, next to our pantu. The pantu driver controls the boat using a large hand-lever, which hangs above the engine placed below the boat deck, creating an open hole right in the middle of the pantu. I was amazed at the ease with which this humongous boat was being operated; and my co-passengers were just as amazed by my fascination with this seemingly mundane state of affairs and bemused at my need to take pictures of it all. A bridge is being constructed right now to span across this part of the Godavari. However, the pantu ride is a merry activity to indulge in, even after the bridge is built. This ferry is important, and is currently the primary means of transport connecting Razole (an important town) to Amalapuram, the largest and most developed town located at almost the centre of the triangular Konaseema delta. The ferry runs across the Vainateya distributary of the Godavari. The uniqueness of the pantu experience leads me to hope that the UNESCO might preserve it as a heritage activity, similar to the way it preserved the experience of riding the toy train (complete with round, stamped tickets) from Mettupalayem to the famous hill station Ooty in Tamil Nadu. Tickets for a pantu ride are extremely cheap and can be bought at any of the revus (banks) that are pantu pick-up or drop off points. Apart from the traditional pantu ride, other boat rides that can last up to nearly thirty minutes are generally available at a number of places all over Konaseema. One such enthralling ride is from Dindi or Razole and will take you under the Chinchinada Bridge, which connects the town of Chinchinada to Dindi. Some of the river-view resorts in and around Dindi can be seen during the boat ride. During this trip, the boat drivers-cum-guides will inevitably point out the famous five-branched palm tree that is an interesting sight, unique to this area. There is a small islet nearby called Sivakodilanka, where tourists were allowed to camp at night and were provided with a bonfire and other entertainment. This was stopped a few years ago due to concerns over flooding. I spotted a number of birds including Kites and Kingfishers while cruising near the Chinchinada Bridge; they kept hovering over the boat, or perched on anything that stood above water level, waiting for any sign of fish. It was also fascinating to watch fishermen wait for a catch in the middle of the waters. These folks navigate their boats to a point that they believe is optimal to catch a lot of fish and then wait patiently until just the right moment. As I zoomed in on them with my camera, I could see a determination and passion for what they do reflected in their faces. The general presumption is that fishermen in India lead a life full of extreme hard work and poverty; to the contrary, the fishermen here seemed to be relaxing, sitting on their boats in lungis (ankle-length wrap-around skirts worn by men in South India, often folded up above knees), listening to music from the radio. A few of them were even wearing sunglasses to protect their eyes from direct sunlight, while a few enjoyed a casual smoke on the boat. We also got to be part of a small birthday party organised for a co-passenger on the boat by her family. I just missed a fresh mint mojito, which would have made the ride even more perfect! Houseboats in Konaseema are another viable option to experience the Godavari, providing a rare, engaging and private opportunity to connect with the Godavari. The houseboats at Dindi offer comfortable accommodation in air-conditioned rooms and a covered top deck where you can unwind, catch up on some reading or play board games if you have company as you gently float on the river. It is the perfect option for a couple, small family, or even a pair of couples to share the house boat and have a comfortable stay. This is one of the best ways to have a one-on-one connect with the Godavari. Apart from Dindi, houseboats are also available to Papi Hills and Bhadrachalam from around Rajahmundry, but they are best experienced in a group as these boats are larger and carry up to sixty people. These boat rides offer entertainment, food and sight-seeing for a fun and frolicking time with a guided tour. All the activities are pre-planned to make it a compelling package.